A (very) quick guide to Tbilisi and Georgia

Updated: 19.02. 2024

Short disclaimer: I wrote this article after the number of people asking me about Georgia grew exponentially, and instead of stream-of-consciousness recommendations, I collected several thoughts and threw in some links.

If you’re heading to Tbilisi for pulsating beats, here’s an insightful article from Resident Advisor. But, I will be adding some new places to dine and drink as I will be moving ahead and hopefully seeing glimpses of beauty.

Things to do in Tbilisi

For starters I’d recommend going for a donation-based walking tours. The focus is on a historical part of the city, but one would learn a lot about culture and history.

One a tour you will probably pass by Abanotubani — a district full of natural sulfur baths — make sure to check it out. The poshest one is Chreli Abano, but there are tons of other options.

Most probably the tour will not include the most beautiful neighbourhood called Sololaki — there are some great walking routes on the internet and komoot, feel free to choose one fitting your itinerary and time.

Clubbing: You like concrete and sweat? check out Bassiani Club, — best techno club in the region, — offers top notch acoustics, star-studded DJ line-up every week, and stands as an epitome of underground (literally under the Football Stadium). It offers 2 stages, the main, with heavy and wobbly beats, and house one — HOROOM. Another choice — lower key, much less appreciated TES Club which is my favorite place to hang out.

Pre-drinks? — look no further than Mutant Radio, it’s around the corner, and they usually have live performances in the evening. Also want to eat in the area? Try the Georgian-European fusion Chveni — also around the corner. The booking here is recommended.

Some other bars: Stamba Hotel’s bar is the place.

Also, head here for great breakfast, lunch or dinner. There’s a grill , asian restaurant and an absolute banger of a chocolaterie and bakery. I had a brief period of grief when they removed my favorite honey cake from their menu, but there are many more

Another place, Rooster, although not specifically a bar, is located in a Dedaena park — space on the bank of a river. They place usually has a very nice crowd and vibe. Best experienced during warm spring and summer evenings.

I can’t confirm myself, but I was told that one of the best Khinkali place is Cafe Daphna in the vicinity of this park, but from what I have tried, Shemomechama stands out. The name of the place is also a very funny Georgian word, which basically means “I didn’t really want to eat (it), but it made me”, alluding to how delicious the place is.

I can recommend a couple of cultural-gathering places and streets where you can find the things you’re looking for — first of all, hit Shardeni Street, it’s a street in the old part of the town and there’s almost always something going on. Leselidze Street is a street nearby that has many nice shops and restaurants. Also, go to Art Cafe Home — there are always nice low-key parties going on, not very touristy, full of charming locals.

For dinner and at the same time cool hangout place, you can head to Lolita.

AND there’s also a magnificent space with a hostel and shopping district called Fabrika — Georgian youth goes to. Here goes also a selection of really, really good restaurants and cafes: Salobie Bia ($), Cafe Gabriadze ($$), Shavi Lomi ($$)and Barbarestan ($$$)

Things Outside Tbilisi

Stepantsminda a small town near the border with Russia, surrounded by the Caucasus range, and with a magnificent view on the Mt. Kazbegi. Make sure you stay at least one night at Rooms Hotel Kazbegi. If you are into meditating, the balcony overlooking the village with a backdrop of a mountain is worth every bit of an effort to get there. Local food to try? Khabidzgina.

Kakheti — a region worth going to. 1.5 hours away from Tbilisi, full of local wineries. Most of these offer tasting and food — not-to-be-missed experience. A signature destination in Kakheti would be Signagi: a picturesque city, where also is conveniently located my favorite winery Pheasant’s Tears (the owner of which is surprisingly America).

Batumi — a seaside city with a mixture of the old and new architecture. Main point — the Black Sea.

Special Note: Gastronomy

Just eat everything you see on the menu. No kidding. Some signature dishes you don’t want to miss: Khinkali (it already had the honorable mention), Khachapuri (many variations: I made one myself and documented step by step recipe here, if you’re interested) and Badrijani Nigvzit.

Worth paying attention to a Megrelian Cuisine. This article sums it up, so make sure you read it. And also a good article from Guardian :)

Let me know if you have any questions and comments below, and I’ll be happy to provide more granular info about things that make Georgia worth a visit.